A European adventure company has announced a bold new plan: reaching the summit of Mount Everest in just seven days. This record-breaking climb will skip traditional acclimatisation methods. Instead, it will use xenon gas to prepare climbers for high altitude. The controversial plan is led by Austrian guide Lukas Furtenbach. He believes xenon can safely boost endurance and oxygen capacity. But many experts are not convinced.
Fast-Tracking Everest: The Plan
Furtenbach’s company offers clients a high-speed journey. They’ll fly from London to Kathmandu, then to Everest Base Camp, and head straight up the mountain. The expedition will cost around €150,000 per person. The key to this rapid climb? Xenon gas. Once known only for its use in lights and as an anaesthetic, xenon may now help climbers adapt to altitude in a lab-like setting.
How Xenon Gas Works
Xenon appears to boost the body’s production of erythropoietin, or EPO. This protein helps create red blood cells. These cells carry oxygen throughout the body—crucial at high altitudes. Normally, EPO production takes weeks of climbing up and down the mountain to trigger. Xenon might mimic this process in hours. Furtenbach says tests show higher endurance and blood oxygen levels in climbers after using xenon.
What the Experts Say
Despite Furtenbach’s confidence, many altitude experts are sceptical. Dr. Andrew Peacock says producing more EPO doesn’t mean the body grows red blood cells fast enough. That process takes time. He worries climbers won’t have enough adaptation to survive the thin air near Everest’s summit. Others in the climbing community call the method risky and untested. The global climbing federation’s medical team warns that the health risks are unknown.
Known Dangers of High Altitude
Mount Everest stands at 8,850 metres (29,035 feet). At that height, oxygen levels are just one-third of what they are at sea level. Without proper adaptation, climbers can suffer from hypoxia. This leads to confusion, fatigue, and even death. Most climbers use bottled oxygen. Only about 230 people have reached the summit without it, out of more than 7,000 total ascents.
A History of Enhancement in the Mountains
Using aids to survive extreme altitudes is not new. In the 1950s, alpinist Hermann Buhl used methamphetamine during his Nanga Parbat ascent. Drugs like acetazolamide (Diamox) help climbers adjust more quickly and sleep better. Dexamethasone is used in emergencies. Even Viagra was tested to prevent lung swelling at altitude. In that context, xenon seems like the next step—but one that raises ethical and safety questions.
Xenon and Sports Bans
One major concern is that xenon use is banned in competitive sports. It was added to the list after reports of its use to increase EPO in athletes. Everest guide Adrian Ballinger says the same logic should apply in mountaineering. He notes that his client climbed Everest in two weeks using simulated altitude training, not banned substances. But mountaineering lacks formal anti-doping rules. So climbers are free to choose their own strategies.
Sherpa Safety and Reduced Exposure
Supporters of Furtenbach’s idea argue that shorter expeditions may reduce risk for Sherpas. Less time in the “Death Zone” means lower exposure to danger. Still, many climbing veterans urge caution. They say more research is needed before using xenon widely.
Where the Idea Began
German doctor Michael Fries first proposed xenon for high-altitude use. His research showed that just 45 minutes of xenon inhalation could raise EPO levels. He shared his findings with Furtenbach. In 2020, the guide tested the method on Argentina’s Aconcagua and later on Everest. He reported strong results, including a 10% increase in red blood cells and high oxygen saturation.
Scientific Gaps Remain
Despite field tests, many scientists say more proof is needed. Professor Mike Grocott says no solid data shows xenon can help people climb Everest in a week. Some studies show EPO rises, but red blood cell counts stay the same. That might not be enough to protect climbers in extreme conditions.
Final Preparations for the Record Attempt
Still, Furtenbach is moving forward. He plans to lead four fit, oxygen-equipped clients up Everest this spring. They will wait for good weather and use pre-installed ropes. The world is watching. Will xenon revolutionise mountaineering or prove too dangerous?
Bold or Reckless?
This daring expedition might change the way we think about climbing the world’s tallest peak. Or it might serve as a warning. As technology and adventure collide, safety remains the ultimate goal.