A Day in the Life of Panyu’s Factory Workers
In the bustling neighborhoods of Guangzhou, the hum of sewing machines fills the air from morning to midnight. These sounds echo through factories as workers craft t-shirts, shorts, blouses, and swimwear bound for over 150 countries. Known as “Shein village,” Panyu hosts around 5,000 factories supplying the fast fashion giant, Shein.
Workers here endure long hours, often laboring up to 75 hours a week, far exceeding China’s legal limit of 44 hours. Many have only one day off per month. A 49-year-old woman from Jiangxi shared, “We usually work 10 to 12 hours daily, with slightly shorter shifts on Sundays.” Like her, many migrant workers rely on piece-rate wages, earning as little as one to two yuan per t-shirt, hoping to send money home to their families.
Factories remain open late into the night. Deliveries and collections cycle endlessly, with trucks unloading bolts of fabric even past 10 p.m. Workers, some staying until midnight, aim to maximize their earnings as orders keep piling up. These conditions highlight Shein’s dependence on relentless production, driving its ability to sell dresses for £10 and sweaters for £6.
Shein’s Rapid Rise Amid Scrutiny
Shein, valued at approximately £36 billion ($60 billion), has become a global force in just five years, surpassing established brands like H&M and Zara. However, its success comes with mounting controversies over labor practices. Investigations, including one by the BBC, reveal workers often earn below living wages despite long shifts. While some report monthly earnings of up to 10,000 yuan, others barely scrape by on less.
Critics also question Shein’s sourcing of cotton from Xinjiang, linked to allegations of forced labor among Uyghur Muslims—a claim Beijing denies. Activists urge Shein to improve transparency by releasing detailed factory lists and supply chain data. Despite these concerns, Shein’s vertically integrated supply chain in China offers unmatched efficiency. Local sourcing of fabrics, zippers, and buttons allows the company to produce a vast inventory rapidly, responding to customer demand through advanced algorithms.
Shein’s business model pressures factory owners to accept lower profits while meeting tight deadlines. One owner remarked, “Shein controls the price, so we must cut costs elsewhere, often in wages.”
Workers’ Lives Behind the Machines
Amid the controversy, some workers take pride in contributing to Shein’s global success. A 33-year-old supervisor from Guangdong said, “We get on well with each other. We are like a family.” Yet, many admit the grueling hours leave little room for personal life.
Factory conditions vary; some provide sufficient lighting and ventilation, and posters discourage child labor after previous violations surfaced. Still, rights groups call for better enforcement of labor laws. “These hours are not unusual, but they are exploitative and illegal,” said David Hachfield from Public Eye.
Shein’s rise has also drawn scrutiny from international policymakers. In June, U.S. Senator Marco Rubio criticized its labor practices, highlighting ethical concerns tied to its Chinese origins.
Balancing Success and Responsibility
Despite criticism, Shein’s punctual payments make it a reliable partner for suppliers. “They always pay on time,” noted a supplier, emphasizing the company’s role in the Chinese economy. For Shein, achieving greater transparency and improving worker conditions are vital steps toward building global credibility, especially as it eyes a public listing on the London Stock Exchange.
Shein’s growth has reshaped the fast fashion landscape, but it has come at a human cost. As workers in Guangzhou power the company’s rise, shoppers worldwide continue to hunt for bargains, often unaware of the reality behind their affordable clothes.